Like most cities, Berlin is subdivided into administrative districts.  In size and character, these Bezirke seem more akin to Paris’s arrondissements than to New York City’s five boroughs.  The current configuration of twelve Bezirke was created in 2001, from the twenty-three that had previously existed.  Each Bezirke has its own mayor and local governing body, which are in turn subject to the city and state government.

Yesterday, Annette and I had an appointment at the Bürgeramt (“citizens department”) for Charlottenburg/Wilmersdorf, the Bezirk in which our neighborhood is located.  The Bürgeramt is in a large, non-descript building near the busy Fehrbelliner Platz.  We had previously been in the building last summer to inquire about public school options for our daughters.  Yesterday’s visit was to obtain official permission to reside in Berlin.  We had to bring a handful of documents, including passports, our marriage certificate, birth certificates for our daughters, and our apartment lease.  Our application was processed by an impassive woman who had clearly been doing this for years.  It was only when she was finally stamping Annette’s German passport that she cracked a smile and said “Jetzt sind Sie Berliner.”  Now you are Berliners.