Auf Wiedersehen, Berlin

I am writing this post at 38,000 feet, on my flight home to the United States.  I am excited to be heading back to family and friends, and to new opportunities for work.  But I already feel Sehnsucht, a nostalgic yearning, for Berlin.  The “poor but sexy” city (no longer quite so) has gotten under my skin like a tattoo.

This has been a wonderful year for Annette, our daughters and me.  Our horizons have been broadened with all that we have had the opportunity to see, do and learn.

Mamta is nearly fluent in German, having attended the third grade at our local elementary school.   She has several close friends here, and is planning to join the Klassenfahrt, or annual class trip, next June when her current classmates will be finishing fourth grade.  Leaving Berlin is not easy for Mamta.  She will particularly miss her friends, and her Berlin-based cousins Jacob, Ellie and Jonas.

Rani rose to the academic challenge of a new high school, where she also has a solid group of friends.  She is planning to return to Berlin after summer vacation for her final year of high school.  Rani and her friend Miranda are currently looking for an apartment together.  I am still coming to grips with the notion that this year in Berlin was our last with Rani as a minor.  She turns eighteen in October.

Annette succeeded in keeping her engineering business on track during our year abroad. The clients with whom she worked were all in New England, and they either forgot that she was an ocean away, or didn’t care.  Annette made sure that we took good advantage of the many cultural opportunities available in Berlin.  We will both miss living within biking distance of three opera houses, dozens of movie theaters, and Bar Jeder Vernunft.  We all enjoyed spending time with Annette’s family in Germany, but I think it was especially nice for her, after having lived in the US for fifteen years.

For my part, I learned much about Germany’s Energiewende, had numerous articles published as Green Building Advisor’s “European Correspondent,” and improved my German substantially.   More so than at home in Walpole, I had the time and flexibility during this “sabattical year” to do things with Rani and Mamta.   And Annette and I enjoyed new activities together, including jogging in the Grunewald park, playing tennis at our local club, and biking throughout the city.

We did not make time to do all the things we had considered or hoped for.  Some day we would still like to go roller blading at Tempelhof field, sip tea at the Literaturhaus cafe, and kayak on the Landwerkanal.  It turns out that a year is not a long time to get to know a city like Berlin.  But this means we have plenty to look forward to on future visits.

While I am excited and also curious (what does the future hold?) to be returning home, the main emotion I am feeling is gratitude.  I am thankful to Annette for being from such a cool country, and for supporting us while we were there.  I am thankful to our daughters for being willing participants as we uprooted them from Walpole (where we all were quite happy) and plunked them down in Berlin.  Other family members also deserve thanks.  We had wonderful experiences with Annette’s parents, her sisters and their families.   And back on the home front, my siblings helped out each other and my parents, who graciously did not complain once (at least not to me!) about our being absent from the house next door.

While traveling or living in another country offers much to appreciate, my favorite aspect is the heightened sense of awareness that naturally arises.  I felt this most acutely during our first few weeks in Berlin.  Although we had previously spent time in the city, moving there to live made everything seem new and different and exciting.  I brought my camera everywhere, because so much of what I was seeing seemed noteworthy.  That sense of newness, the “beginner’s mind” in which all things are possible, faded slowly as the months passed.  Our daily life in Berlin became more routine.  What had seemed foreign became familiar.

Some weeks ago, I noticed once again that my awareness of the city was sharpened, only this time it was because I was trying to soak in all that I could before leaving.  I would bike the long way from Point A to Point B, just to experience streets I had not yet been on.  That feeling of Sehnsucht, of longing — in this case, for something that was not yet gone — colored my trips through the city.

I am now wondering whether, upon returning to Walpole, I will feel some of that same sense of newness that I felt when we moved to Berlin.  I expect that our home community will feel familiar but different.  If that’s so, we won’t know how much has changed in our absence, and how much our being away has changed us.  T. S. Eliot writes in Four Quartets,

            We shall not cease from exploration

            And the end of all our exploring

            Will be to arrive where we started

            And know the place for the first time.

Or, at least to see it with a new perspective.

Thanks to all who visited this blog.  I look forward to the possibility of future Snapshots from Berlin. 

The Gasometer

The Gasometer is one of several unusual structures that I have glimpsed repeatedly over the years while biking through Berlin.

the Gasometer

the Gasometer

Like the spherical water tower in Park Gleisdreieck, reminiscent of a WWI-era pickelhaube helmet,

water tower at Gleisdreieck

water tower at Gleisdreieck

Prussian Pickelhaube helmet

Prussian Pickelhaube helmet

and the giant pink pipe at the west end of the Tiergarten,

pink pipe in Tiergarten

pink pipe in Tiergarten

I have wondered about the Gasometer’s history, use, and future.  Last Friday my questions were answered when Annette, her cousin Katrin and I climbed 420 steps to the top of the 80 meter tall structure. Continue reading

Feldheim, an Energy Self-Sufficient Community

A version of this post appears at GreenBuildingAdvisor.com.

entrance to Feldheim

entrance to Feldheim

From a distance, Feldheim looks like many other rural villages in Germany: a cluster of buildings surrounded by farmland and forests.   The backdrop includes numerous wind turbines, but that’s not unusual in Germany’s breezy north.  What is unusual is that there are two signs welcoming visitors to Feldheim: the typical yellow sign that is found at the edge of every village, and another in blue and white announcing that Feldheim is an “Energieautarker Ortsteil,” or an energy self-sufficient district.  In 2010, Feldheim became one of the first villages in Germany to supply all of its own electricity and heat.

I visited Feldheim twice recently.  During my first visit I met with Michael Knape, the mayor of Treuenbrietzen, the adjacent town to which Feldheim belongs.  I had seen Mr. Knape give a presentation about Feldheim at a bioenergy village conference in Berlin, and I was eager to follow up with him.  He suggested that we meet “at the construction site” in Feldheim.  When I asked which one, he sounded surprised: “There’s only one.”

Finding the jobsite was not difficult.  Feldheim has just one main street, and most of the village’s homes are on it.  I pulled up to a two story building wrapped in scaffolding. Several masons were repointing brick and reproducing masonry moldings on the front of the building, while at the gable end, another crew was installing batts of mineral wool insulation on the walls.  A large sign out front announced the Neue-Energien-Forum Feldheim, or “New Energy Forum Feldheim.”   I noticed an electric vehicle charging station adjacent to the building.

New Energy Forum Feldheim

New Energy Forum Feldheim

As Mr. Knape and I settled into a temporary conference room that had been set up on site, I asked him “Why Feldheim? Why here?”

“In the early 1990s, ” he told me, “a graduate student named Michael Raschemann visited the village while looking for a location to install four wind turbines.”  The conditions in Feldheim seemed promising because the area is windy, and the land surrounding the village is relatively flat.  In his subsequent discussions with the villagers, Mr. Raschemann proved adept at addressing the villagers’ concerns and winning their trust.  He even offered local residents the opportunity to invest in one of the four wind turbines — a wise investment, as it turned out.  The story of Feldheim becoming energy self-sufficient is largely about the successful public-private partnership between Energiequelle, the company that Mr. Raschemann founded, and the village of Feldheim. Continue reading

Two Trips

One of the original intentions of this blog was to share with family members and friends some of the experiences that Annette, our daughters and I are having here in Germany.  In that spirit, I just posted to the Gallery photos from two recent trips that Annette and I had the good fortune to take.  The first was with Rani, horseback riding in northeastern Spain. The second was with Mamta and another family, bicycling in northern Germany.

Germany’s Building Energy Efficiency Ordinance

[A version of this post also appears at GreenBuildingAdvisor.com]

In mid October of last year, the German government approved amendments to its Energie Einsparung Verordnung (EnEV), the federal ordinance that mandates energy efficiency for buildings.  Negotiations about revisions to the EnEV were prolonged and heated. The ordinance that was passed is a testament both to the collaborative abilities of the government’s various factions, and to the importance the German public places on the country’s Energy Transition. This latest version of the EnEV reflects the government’s relevant energy policy decisions, and it brings the ordinance into alignment with the latest European Union Directive regarding building energy performance.

energy performance scale showing site (above) and source (below) energy demand

energy performance scale showing site (above) and source (below) energy demand

On May 1 of this year, the changes that were approved last October came into force. New requirements relating to building energy labeling and heating systems are now in effect, but a key provision of the so-called EnEV 2014 — tighter requirements for building energy efficiency — will not be in force until 2016. Continue reading

The Excitement of Spargelzeit

We are in the midst of Spargelzeit — asparagus season — here in Germany.  This asparagus is not the slim green variety that one typically finds in the US, but rather plump stalks of white asparagus.  White asparagus is the same species as green, but it is cultivated differently.  Soil is piled over the young shoots as they grow, and opaque tarps ensure that no light reaches the asparagus .  In the absence of sunlight, photosynthesis does not occur, and the stalks become etiolated — they remain white.

white asparagus

white asparagus

Fans of white asparagus (every German I know) claim that it is less bitter and more tender than its green counterpart.  The stalks also tend to be thicker, because the asparagus is allowed to grow longer.  The downside to white asparagus is that the thick skin has to be peeled before it can be eaten.  The peeling can be done at home with a vegetable peeler, but for €1.00, our local grocer will send a kilo of asparagus through this peeling machine:

asparagus peeling machine

asparagus peeling machine

rollers and blades

rollers and blades

peeled asparagus

peeled asparagus

I don’t think it took too many German machine engineers to come up with this contraption. It consists simply of pairs of rollers interspersed with fixed-blade vegetable peelers. Continue reading

Germany’s Bioenergy Villages

Note: this article was originally written for GreenBuildingAdvisor.com.

The notion that a village can produce as much energy as it consumes is not new in Germany, nor is it exclusive to this country that has set aggressive targets for renewable energy use. In the mid-1990s, for example, the Austrian village of Güssing began implementing strategies to use local biomass to produce electricity and heat, and the Danish island community of Samsø installed wind turbines to meet its electrical needs.

Biogas plant, wood chip boiler and PV array in bioenergy village Mauenheim

Biogas plant, wood chip boiler and PV array in bioenergy village Mauenheim

In recent years, however, the idea of Bioenergiedörfer, or “bioenergy villages,” seems to have captured the public imagination in Germany. Last month I attended a conference called “Bioenergy Villages 2014” that provided a great overview of the bioenergy village movement in Germany.

Continue reading

Novelty and Nostalgia, Progress and Loss

In a recent New York Times article about the changing face of Brooklyn, A.O. Scott writes “Every city is simultaneously a seedbed of novelty and a hothouse of nostalgia, and modern New York presents a daily dialectic of progress and loss.”

The same could be said of Berlin.

Tacheles today

Tacheles today

Some weeks ago I came across a building called Tacheles that I had not seen in fifteen years.  It was more like the shell of a building, although that was already an apt description when I first saw it in January of 1998.  Back then I was visiting Germany — and Annette — for the first time.  Since Annette was working during the day, I spent much of that visit biking around the city and looking at buildings.

Berlin was rougher back then, more of a work in progress.  Numerous tower cranes punctuated the skyline like so many erector sets.  Postdamer Platz was a huge hole in the ground.  The latest proposal for the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe was being hotly critiqued. And although the Berlin Wall had been down for nearly ten years, the differences between East and West Berlin were still evident.  The majority of the drab GDR-era buildings in East Berlin had not yet been renovated (the German word is saniert, which has the same Latin root as “sanitized”).  I marveled at the pockmarked stone exteriors of many buildings in the East.  The East German government apparently had more pressing concerns than patching holes left by bullets and shrapnel from World War II.

Tacheles department store

Tacheles department store

Tacheles circa 1996

Tacheles circa 1996

One evening during that first visit to Berlin, Annette took me to Tacheles.  If she was trying to impress me, it worked.  Before World War II, Tacheles had been a department store in the city’s Jewish quarter.  The building was damaged during the war, and never repaired. Portions of the structure were demolished in 1980, and the rest was scheduled to be taken down in 1990, but a group of artists staged a protest that eventually led to the building being granted historic landmark status.  When Annette and I were there in 1998, Tacheles was a graffiti-tagged warren that included artists’ ateliers, funky places to eat and drink, and a small movie theater. Music and smoke hung in the air. Because sections of the rear wall of the building were missing, one could see into some of the rooms from the sculpture garden behind the building.  The menu at the restaurant where we ate was printed on an Eviction Notice for the building’s occupants.

Seeing Tacheles recently brought back memories of what Berlin was like in 1998, of who I was — a young man falling in love — and of who Annette and I were — a couple embarking on a shared life.  Berlin has changed, as have we.

Continue reading

Karneval

Karneval parade

Karneval parade

Two weeks ago, Annette, Rani, Mamta and I attended Karneval in Bonn with Annette’s sisters and their families.  In Germany, Karneval is celebrated most enthusiastically in areas of the country that have historically been Catholic.  The state of North Rhine-Westfalia (“NRW”) where Bonn is located is the epicenter of Karneval celebrations in Germany.  Annette’s sister Susanne lives in Bonn with her husband Mortiz (a “Bonner”) and their three children.  Since Annette had lived in NRW during her high school years, she was familiar with the Karneval celebrations there, and was enthusiastic about our experiencing them as a family.

Karneval has its roots in Christian traditions leading up to Easter.  The celebrating begins in earnest on “Fat Thursday,” the Thursday preceding Ash Wednesday.  Six days of uninhibited excess end with Lent, a period of fasting and renunciation.  Rhinelanders take the partying seriously: the celebrations typically begin at work on Thursday, and most employees are not expected to return to work until the following Wednesday.  Each day parades are held throughout the region, with the largest being in Cologne on Rosenmontag — Rose Monday.

We traveled to Bonn on Friday afternoon, and returned to Berlin late Sunday evening. What we found at Karneval was an energetic mash-up of Halloween, New Year’s Eve and Spring Break. Continue reading

BauTec 2014

[A version of this article was also posted at GreenBuildingAdvisor.com].

BauTec 2014

BauTec 2014

I recently attended BauTec, a trade fair for the construction industry that is held annually in Berlin. According to the show’s marketers, BauTec is “the year’s most important trade industry event.” I found the show to be impressive, inspiring and overwhelming.  Each of ten large halls at Berlin’s International Conference Center was filled with exhibits and booths dedicated to a different segment of the construction industry: Windows/Doors/Glazing, Plumbing/Heating/Cooling, etc.  I ended up visiting the show on three different days to attend seminars being held in tandem with the trade show, and to walk the trade show floor.   Continue reading