Two Churches

Berlin was essentially flattened in World War II.  In the years that followed the war, the buildings that were deemed worth saving were rebuilt, with varying degrees of faithfulness to their original appearance.  They are now termed “Albau.”  In contrast, much of the housing stock in Berlin is relatively uninteresting, having been built quickly and inexpensively to provide housing after the war.

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (2010)

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (2010)

A well-known monument to the destruction wreaked by WWII is the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (Gedächtniskirche).  It’s nickname is “The Hollow Tooth.”  The church’s original spire was preserved in its damaged state, and in the early 1960’s, a chapel was built adjacent to it.

The church is currently enclosed in scaffolding as renovation work is underway.

The Hollow Tooth enscaffolded

The Hollow Tooth enscaffolded

Interestingly, the scaffold enclosure was designed to look like an office building.

Today while biking across town I came across another church that caught my eye.  St. Norbert’s Kirche was originally built between 1913 and 1918, in the Neo-Roman style.

St. Norbert's Kirche

St. Norbert’s Kirche

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like the Gedächtniskirche, this church was heavily damaged in WWII.  In 1958, the church was rebuilt to a design that combined old and new elements.

I considered starting this post by saying that Berlin has lots of beautiful buildings, but this is not one of them.  Then again, the building is historically significant, and it may appear attractive to some.  When I first saw it, I thought it was awful, but it certainly can’t be accused of being uninteresting.  In fact, the more I look at it, the better I like it…

Strandbad Wannsee

When I first visited Berlin in 1998, the differences between what had been East and West Berlin were fading, but still visible.  These days, one has to consult a guidebook to find the former borders of the divided city.  As I travel about Berlin, I sometimes find myself wondering whether a particular area was controlled by the Soviet Union or the West during the Cold War.

Our first weekend here, Annette declared that we were going to the Wannsee.  This didn’t mean much to me, but I know from experience to trust that tone of hers.  To get to the lake, Annette and I biked through the Grunewald, a huge park near our apartment.  Our daughters went by car with Annette’s sister and her family.

The Strandbad -- bathing beach

The Strandbad — bathing beach

Heading out to the water slide

Heading out to the water slide

The Wannsee Strandband is apparently one of the longest inland beaches in Europe.  It is also a popular spot for nude sunbathing (“FKK,” or “Frei Korper Kultur”), but that end of the beach was discretely screened off from our area.  I have spent enough time in northern Germany that the Strandkorb, those overgrown baskets that provide

shelter from sun and wind, no longer look comical to me.  In fact, although (or perhaps because) I am not a huge fan of beach-going, I have become a fan of the Strandkorbs.

I asked my brother-in-law Stefan if he knew whether the Wannsee had been in West Berlin or under Soviet control.

Enjoying the sun (1)

Enjoying the sun (1)

“Most of the lake was in West Berlin,” he told me,  “but the border actually ran through the western end of the lake.  In fact, during the Cold War, the Soviet Union and Western governments exchanged spies on the Glienicke Bridge, because that was a place where they could easily have direct contact.”

Enjoying the sun (2)

Enjoying the sun (2)

New Hampshire Engineering

Segway wheelchair

Segway Rollstuhl

I was biking back from across town with a just-purchased used guitar under my arm when I saw this vehicle.  I stopped and did a double-take. Were there really just two wheels?  A Segway wheelchair?!

The man graciously agreed to my taking a photo of his rig.  We chatted.  He loves his Segway, because he is not able to use a regular wheelchair. Yes, it takes some getting used to, but it’s not too difficult.  He asked about the guitar.  I had found it on eBay.  He plays jazz keyboards with a friend who is a guitarist.

In the United States, German engineering is synonymous with quality.  One of my goals in coming to Germany is to learn more about energy efficient materials, systems and technologies that may be years ahead of what’s currently available in the US.  I was pleasantly surprised to find  here, in the form of an unusual wheelchair, a wonderful example of innovative engineering that originates in New Hampshire.  In 1999, inventor Dean Kamen founded the Segway Company, and subsequently built the company’s headquarters and manufacturing plant in Bedford, NH.

 

District Heating in Berlin

Sedanstr 1What can I say?  I’m interested in underground utilities: those hidden networks of tunnels, pipes and wires that provide so many of the services that we tend to take for granted.

This block-long excavation at the side of a residential street looked to me like it involved municipal water and Sedanstr 3sewer pipes, but the men working on it told me that they were upgrading distribution for heat and domestic hot water.  I presume that the smaller pipes with the thick white insulation are carrying heat and hot water.

Where does the hot water come from? “Ein Heizungskessel” — a boiler.

I later learned via a  quick internet search that:

Berlin ranks top among the cities in Germany with regard to its use of cogeneration systems. The city has the largest district-heating network in Western Europe. A 1,600-kilometer network of pipes delivers heat to consumers using resource-conserving technologies. Over 280 cogeneration plants across the city provide reliable and environmentally friendly heat and electricity. Nearly 30 percent of the district-heating market in Berlin is supplied by cogeneration plants, and the city has long-term plans to boost this percentage further.

So a distributed network of cogeneration plants, fired primarily by natural gas and coal, creates electricity and heat for a significant portion of the city.

Before we arrived in Germany, I had been planning to look into the biomass-fired (wood chips and pellets) district heating systems that have been developed in Northern Austria.  I was not expecting to find examples of district heating systems under my feet in Berlin.

 

Neuer See in Tiergarten

1 cafe am neuesee_croppedThe Tiergarten, sometimes referred to as Berlin’s “green lung,” is a large park in the heart of the city.  At 210 hectares, it is about two-thirds the size of New York’s Central Park.

The Brandenburg Gate stands at the east end of the park, and the city’s zoo is 3 Jacob, Ellie and Mamta (Large)at the west end. The winding north edge of the park is defined by the River Spree, and to the southeast is Potsdamer Platz.  The park is laced with waterways, including a small lake called the Neuer See that is roughly the shape of a five-armed octopus.

2 AK dirigent (Large)Last Sunday we biked over to Cafe am Neuensee for brunch.  Turns out that one can rent rowboats there — “Ruderboote.”  The boats weren’t much for rowing, but in the inimitable words of the character Rat from The Wind in the Willows, “There is nothing — absolutely nothing — half so much worth doing as 4 Volle Kraft ahead (Large)simply messing about in boats.”

 

Biking in Berlin

Annette and I love biking in cities.  Our daughters do not, yet, but often we talk them into it.

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Sunday morning outing by bike

Berlin is the most bike-friendly city I have experienced.  The city’s transportation infrastructure encourages biking.  The plentiful bike lanes are usually located between the streets and the sidewalks.

P1070103 (Medium).        P1070106 (Medium)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bike lanes have their own traffic signals.  Bikers here generally obey the traffic signals. This is hard for me to do, but I am trying.  It helps that the car drivers seem to be quite respectful of bikers.

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Bike traffic lights for both directions

Bike traffic lights for turning left and turning right

 

Two reds mean you really, really have to stop.

Two reds mean you really, really have to stop.

I love biking in Berlin

I love biking in Berlin!